A Taste of Venice: Exploring Risi e Bisi (Rice and Peas) Through Pizza

Risi e bisi, also known as "rice and peas," is a traditional Italian dish deeply rooted in the region of Veneto, Italy and more specifically, Venice. Landing somewhere between risotto and soup, risi e bisi features rice and peas that thrive in bountiful Veneto. Often enjoyed during spring, the dish showcases the simplicity and flavor of peas when they’re at their freshest and most flavorful.

Food blogger and personal chef Federica Cegalin (@_ilprofumodeldejavu) who also happens to live in Veneto, has put her own spin on this classic by transforming it into a delicate pizza. The pizza crust uses a dough made from wheat and black rice flour (which can be purchased online), as well as a poolish – a high-hydration preferment made from flour, water and yeast to enhance flavour. 

Federica loves using vialone nano rice, a variety sourced from the rice fields of Grumolo delle Abbadesse (a small town in Veneto), and peas come from Lumignano (also in Veneto), known for their exceptional texture and taste. These slightly sweet peas complement the savouriness of black pepper rolled pancetta (note: regular pancetta works just as well!) and Morlacco del Grappa, a cow's milk cheese from the Monte Grappa region in Veneto. 

To enhance the overall taste profile, Federica finishes her pizza with dollops of wild garlic pesto and thin strips of preserved lemon for a pop of citrus. Prepare to savour the vibrant flavours of Veneto with this mouthwatering pizza rendition of the beloved risi e bisi.

Cooked risi e bisi (rice and peas) pizza with mozzarella, Morlacco del Grappa cheese, rice, peas, pancetta, preserved lemon and sprigs of savory.

Note

This recipe requires advance planning – you’ll need to proof the poolish and then mix it with the dough for a combined total of 24 hours before cooking. If you don’t have access to Morlacco del Grappa cheese, it can be swapped with semi-mature soft cheeses like asiago or fontina, and store-bought pesto and frozen peas are convenient alternatives to homemade and fresh ingredients. You can also make the pesto ahead of time and keep it in the fridge for about 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

For the poolish

1. In a medium bowl, put in 300 grams of flour, 300 grams of water and 1 ½ grams of fresh yeast (or 1 gram active dry yeast).

2. Mix vigorously with a fork or spatula until the mixture is smooth and free of lumps.

Leave out at room temperature for 1 hour, then place the mixture in an airtight plastic container and let it rest in the refrigerator for 12 to 15 hours. 

For the dough

1. Once the poolish is ready, in a medium bowl, add 75 grams of flour, 75 grams of black rice flour, salt and fresh yeast (or instant dry yeast) together.

Mix the ingredients by hand. Take the poolish out of the fridge and add the dough mixture a little at a time to the poolish.

2. Once incorporated, proceed with a series of 3 folds in the bowl.

Make 1 fold, then let the dough rest in the fridge for 10 minutes. Repeat this process of folding and resting 2 more times to obtain an elastic and easy-to-roll dough.

3. At the end of the series of folds, place the dough in an airtight container and let it rest at room temperature (18 °C or 65 °F) for about 4 hours.

 

4. Divide the dough into three 250 gram balls.

Place the balls on a tray or container and cover with a cloth or plastic wrap. Let them rest at room temperature for about 2 hours.

For the wild garlic pesto (if making by hand)

1. Toast the pine nuts in a non-stick pan over medium-low heat until they turn golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Set aside. If using wild garlic, thoroughly wash and dry the leaves. 

2. Put all the ingredients in a blender and blend until you get a creamy and velvety texture.

Set aside.

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For the toppings

1. In a medium pot, bring lightly salted water to boil.

Add the unshelled peas and cook for 10 to 12 minutes.

2. Slice one preserved lemon rind into thin strips (4 to 5).

Tip: Most specialty grocery stores carry preserved lemons, a frequent Mediterranean ingredient that adds a refreshing and zesty flavour profile. Federica is a proponent of preserving lemons at home – if you happen to have some on hand, feel free to make your own: Wash a lemon and cut it into 4 sections (without dividing it completely). Next, place it in an airtight glass jar, cover completely with coarse salt and let it rest in the fridge for 20 to 30 days before cooking.



For the pizza

1. Preheat your oven to between 370 to 380 °C (700 to 715 °F).

You can measure the temperature quickly and accurately using a laser thermometer, aiming it at the centre of the baking stone.

2. On a lightly-floured surface, roll out the first dough ball to form a disc of about 12-inches (30 centimetres), leaving room for a 1-inch (2 ½ centimetre) crust.

3. Season with ⅓ of the mozzarella, ⅓ of the Morlacco (or asiago or fontina), ⅓ boiled peas and ⅓ of the pancetta.

Add freshly ground black pepper to taste and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

4. Slide the dough onto a lightly-floured pizza peel and launch it into the oven.

Bake for 90 seconds to 2 minutes, turning occasionally to ensure an even bake. 

5. Take the pizza out of the oven and garnish with a few strips of the preserved lemon rind, fresh savory or thyme, and and a few dollops of pesto.

6. Slice, serve and enjoy your meal!.

Slice, serve and enjoy your meal!

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7. Repeat the steps with the remaining pizzas.