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For award-winning chef, teacher and author of “Outside: Cooking Outdoors - Recipes for the Wild” Gill Meller (@gill.meller), foraging for wild mushrooms is a joyous activity. Based in Dorset, he’s lucky enough to live near woodlands with an abundance of rich, fertile soil where mushrooms thrive, and one of his preferred ways to use them is as a pizza topper. Gill is especially fond of porcini with their nutty and earthy taste and hedgehogs, which are sweet, floral, nutty and slightly crunchy in texture.
Both porcini and hedgehogs are harvested around Europe and North America, but if you’re nowhere near a forest or without a background in foraging, they’re also available at most grocery stores or farmers’ markets. That means you can make Gill’s wild mushroom pizza with gorgonzola, thyme and ham from almost anywhere and during any season.
Starting with a homemade dough base, Gill tops his pizza with handfuls of wild mushrooms, sweet and salty pancetta (cured, spiced and dried pork belly) and a smattering of gorgonzola. If he’s keeping things super local, he’ll go for Dorset Blue Vinny, a delicious, tangy, aged cow's cheese made just down the road. (While challenging to source outside of the UK, if you want something similar, look for creamy/crumbly blue cheese made from pasteurised cow’s milk.)
The key to having the robust flavours play off each other best here is roasting the mushrooms first in olive oil, garlic and a sprinkling of fresh thyme. Using the oven's high heat will burn off moisture, caramelise the edges and intensify the umami, balancing nicely with the sweet tomato sauce, strong blue cheese and aromatic thyme.
Another option is to make this a vegetarian pizza: simply drop the pancetta and tear over some cooked, drained spinach for an extra dose of greens and vitamins. No matter how you slice it, this is sure to be your new favourite way to highlight mushrooms!
Four 12-inch (30 centimetre) pizzas
20 minutes
(not including sauce, dough prep and proof time)3 to 4 ½ minutes
By Gill Meller
Note
For the dough, we recommend our Classic Pizza Dough; just be sure to set aside 3 to 4 hours for proofing before cooking. We’re partial to our Classic Pizza Sauce for the sauce, which only needs 45 minutes. Unless you’re a foraging expert, we strongly advise using shop-bought or farmers’ market mushrooms. If you can’t source porcini, shiitakes will do, and feel free to swap chanterelles for hedgehogs. And if you can’t find pancetta, bacon or prosciutto can also be used. Though the flavours will differ slightly, the result will still be tasty!
Gill Meller
Gill Meller is a UK-based chef, award-winning food writer, food stylist and cookery teacher. Gill works closely with chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and River Cottage, and appears regularly on the celebrated Channel 4 series. A contributor to the Observer, Guardian, Waitrose Food, Telegraph and Country Living to name a few, Gill’s recipe column can be found in the award-winning delicious. magazine every month. Gill's first book, Gather (2016), won the Fortnum & Mason Award for Best Debut Food Book, and both Time (2018) and Root, Stem, Leaf, Flower (2020) were nominated for the Guild of Food Writers’ Cookbook of the Year. He is also the author of the River Cottage Handbook on Outdoor Cooking and, more recently, Outside: Cooking Outdoors - Recipes for the Wild (2022).
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